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Reading the history

A gap in the MOT history: what to ask before buying

What it means

There's a stretch of time in this car's history with no MOT test in it. That's a missing chapter, not a verdict. Cars sit in garages, go abroad, get restored, or are simply too new to need testing yet.

Start with two dates: when the last certificate ran out, and when the next test happened. Then ask the seller what the car was doing in between, and ask for something that backs the answer up. The gap itself isn't the finding. The mismatch between the gap and the story is.

Why gaps happen

The car wasn't old enough to need a test. Most private cars get their first MOT at three years old in Great Britain, four in Northern Ireland. A 2013 car's history starting in 2016 isn't a gap at all.

It was off the road. Stored, part-way through a restoration, or SORNed. Ask for the dates and anything that supports them. Low mileage across the gap is consistent with storage but doesn't prove it.

It was abroad, or it's an import. Ask for foreign test records and the import paperwork.

The records are older than the service goes back. Great Britain car results start in 2005; Northern Ireland results start in December 2017. Anything earlier simply isn't there to show.

A test is missing, or an exemption or official extension applied. Check the recorded expiry date and ask for the certificate or exemption evidence. Northern Ireland has issued temporary exemption certificates, so don't mistake an extended certificate for a missed test.

Sources: the GOV.UK history service, the first-test rules and the Northern Ireland scheme.

What it costs

A gap isn't a repair, so there's no price to knock off for it. What costs money is finding out what the car needs now.

If it needs a test, the maximum fee for a car in Great Britain is £54.85, before any repairs (official MOT fees). Northern Ireland has its own fees.

If the car's been standing, an inspection is worth paying for: ask a garage to assess its current condition rather than assuming a past pass still describes it. Price anything found separately, and don't subtract an invented "missing year" figure from the asking price — it isn't a number anyone can justify.

If you're buying the car

Write the gap down and ask for an account of the whole period, not just the start or the end of it.

Check that account against the paperwork: service invoices, old certificates, mileage readings either side.

Look at the mileage across the gap. If the readings are accurate and use the same units, a rise shows use between those tests. It doesn't tell you whether the miles were driven before the previous MOT expired or during the gap.

Check the current MOT status separately. An explanation for a gap five years ago doesn't help if the car needs a valid test today.

If the documents and the story disagree, pause before any deposit. That's what the gap was worth finding.

Where the information comes from

MOT history holds test results and odometer readings. It doesn't record where a car was or how it was looked after between tests.

SORN is a separate declaration to DVLA, and an MOT gap doesn't tell you whether one was made. Exemptions come with conditions, so check the Great Britain rules or the Northern Ireland equivalent for that particular vehicle.

If a Great Britain test really is missing from the record, the seller can contact DVSA to have it corrected. Ask to see the corrected history afterwards, not just a promise to sort it.

What this page can't tell you

A gap can't tell you where the car was or how it was maintained, and a fresh MOT doesn't fill in the missing years — it records the result on the test date. This is a guide to the record, not a diagnosis.

Next

Check a car with Lemoned to see every test in order with the mileage at each one, which is the quickest way to read a gap. Also see mileage going backwards.

Spotted an error? Email hello@lemoned.co.uk with the passage and the source that contradicts it. Please don't send personal documents.